I tried the Nordic cruise that takes you to the North Pole – where you can even have a pint
IT felt like Norse water god Njord had zapped his trident at the large glacier as ice crashed into the Barents Sea.
Strangely, it didn’t faze the walruses bobbing about near our boat.
They’ve obviously got used to the sight that left us open-mouthed.
It was just one of the incredible experiences on my bucket list trip to Norway with Hurtigruten Expeditions.
This year the firm has re- introduced its cruise itinerary to the edge of the world — The Svalbard Express — as part of its 130th anniversary.
Now adventure seekers can book this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see the wonders of the North Pole, where I was lucky enough to hold a brick-sized chunk of Arctic ice.
Hurtigruten’s luxurious MS Trollfjord offers two itineraries — one heading north and the other going south.
We joined the ten-day southern journey, sailing from Longyearbyen, where I joined mesmerised tourists exploring the icy Svalbard islands on the lookout for reindeer, Arctic foxes, walrus, seal and polar bears.
The settlement boasts the world’s northernmost university, museum, church, brewery and pub, and a pint of local Spitsbergen Stout calmed my adrenaline after my white-knuckled ride to the glacier.
Tourists who wander off alone do so at their own peril, with warning signs everywhere about Svalbard’s roaming polar bears.
By law you have to be accompanied by a person certified to use a rifle.
Thankfully, on our quad bike tour, our expedition leader revealed she’d recently graduated from hunting school.
The local cuisine is also not for the faint-hearted.
At Willem’s Cabin we’re served seal, reindeer heart and sea urchin soup, washed down with a glass of Petillant Naturel Napa Valley wine.
Next day, my fears of being chased by polar bears were eased as I careered through
Advent Valley on my quad bike, accompanied by gunslinging Vilde.
In Longyearbyen the sun does a circular loop, so it is never out of the sky — constantly illuminating the multicoloured wooden buildings standing in the shadow of Svalbard’s longest fjord, Isfjorden.
Our first stop-off was the even more wild and remote Ny-Alesund.
A visit to the tiny research town felt extra special knowing I’d breathed the purest air that had ever passed through this Londoner’s lungs.
Arctic wine cellar
It was time to head further south and our 24 hours at sea as we sailed to mainland Norway was enjoyed in the lap of luxury.
The oak-panelled library was the perfect spot for a cocktail, but the refurbished viewing decks provided the best after-dinner entertainment as a pod of whales followed our ship for hours.
The on-board culinary experience, all included, is just as unique.
One day you are eating seal and the next scooping bone marrow jelly out of a cow’s femur.
Head chef Erik, who has worked for the company for 29 years, sources produce from local suppliers along the route.
I devoured a dollop of local goat’s cheese on seeded bread and dived into slow-roast tomato tatin, and grilled, steamed and fried King crab.
For wine, Hurtigruten has teamed up with Rathfinny Estate in East Sussex and sunk 1,700 bottles of their sparkling white, making the world’s first Arctic wine cellar.
They left them there for six months and raised them in May.
Now they’re serving them on all the ships.
It was time to enjoy its smooth bubbles.
Just another first on a trip full of ice bucket list moments.
GO: Norway
GETTING THERE: Ten-night Svalbard Express Southbound Voyage on MS Trollfjord from £3,016pp on select dates between May 9 and September 12, 2024.
Price includes full board dining and selected drinks on board, 4H hotel stay, excursions and transfers in Longyearbyen.
Flights extra.
See hurtigruten.co.uk or call 02045 711 560.
OUT & ABOUT: Quad Biking tour – £120pp, and Walrus Safari and visit to glacier – £95pp.