Restaurant review: Lots to love at Larkspur’s Loveski

Love has arrived in Marin. Well, Loveski, that is. A twist on the classic Jewish deli, Loveski opened in Larkspur’s Marin Country Mart in December and is playfully spreading its love of delicious food. Before arriving in Marin, Loveski’s first location was at the Oxbow Public Market in Napa and is still lauded by the […]

Love has arrived in Marin. Well, Loveski, that is. A twist on the classic Jewish deli, Loveski opened in Larkspur’s Marin Country Mart in December and is playfully spreading its love of delicious food. Before arriving in Marin, Loveski’s first location was at the Oxbow Public Market in Napa and is still lauded by the press and public.

Loveski’s bright white front faces north toward the parking lot and, above the large windows and front door, bold red letters proclaim “Made with love.”

Go through those doors into a warm embrace of wonderful smells filling the high-ceiling expanse.

Husband-and-wife team Christopher and Martina Kostow have created a Northern California-style deli with some influences from traditional Jewish delis and from Martina Kostow’s Thai American upbringing. Christopher Kostow was the Michelin-star chef of Restaurant at Meadowood in the Napa Valley until the Glass Fire in 2020 destroyed the kitchen.

This deli project had been teasing them for a while. We are fortunate this talented team has focused its attention here.

My friends and I arrived mid-afternoon on a Sunday. A few of the outdoor tables were occupied while the indoor tables were free. The afternoon was beginning to turn cool so we opted to sit inside. The round, bright red stools at the counter reminded us all of old-fashioned soda fountains. Soon other tables around us began to fill.

We ordered at the counter, paid and were given a number for our table.

Glasses and water were brought to our table and each order was delivered as it came up. I didn’t think to ask to have the food orders staggered a bit, so we quickly had a full table.

We had ordered our drinks at the bar when we placed our food order. In addition to the various coffees and teas, there are soft drinks, including Dr. Brown’s sodas ($3). A few local wines are available by the glass ($9 to $14) or bottle ($25 to $35) with a few half bottles in the $18 to $35 range that include some imports. There is a limited selection of beers ($4 to $8) including the popular Fort Point KSA Ale.

First up: the Sesame Seed Bagel topped with Smoked Whitefish ($18). One of our dining companions who had eaten here before had given gold stars to the whitefish and she was so right. The bagel, crisp on the outside and chewy on the inside, was delicious on its own. The lightly smoked whitefish spread was tossed with thin slices of Thai chilies, pickled red onions and cream cheese, and sprinkled with crispy onions.

For the 10 Mini Potato Latkes ($15), we added sides of both the applesauce and the sour cream ($2). These latkes are not the usual flat, spidery shape. Golden and crunchy with soft potato insides, they were irresistible. We dabbed them with the sides and they disappeared quickly.

Eight Beef Dumplings ($15), atop fluffy sour cream, were about the size and texture of wontons.  Dotted with chili crisp and generously topped with a scattering of slivers and rounds of green onions, they were not the table favorite. We expected a more dynamic flavor. Perhaps the resemblance to wontons predisposed us to expect something more intense. I must order them again.

The vegan Smashed Chickpea Sandwich ($14) was on a long sourdough roll with a blistered crust. Roughly crushed chickpeas were tossed with raw and pickled vegetables and vegan mayonnaise, heaped onto the split and toasted roll and topped with mixed greens. Both the sandwich and the half of a pickle served alongside it were full of satisfying flavors.

I’m a fan of a Reuben sandwich, so I’m headed back to Loveski to try theirs with corned beef and kimchi ($21).

We didn’t actually vote while eating but it seemed pretty evident that the table’s favorite was the Chopped Salad ($19). By the way, the portions at Loveski are such to encourage sharing. The good-sized bowl of the salad was as pretty as a centerpiece. Chopped greens, pickled vegetables, red slivers of radicchio, dark brown crouton slices and smoked salmon bits and pieces were all tossed together and lavishly sprinkled with white and black sesame seeds.

The blue plate specials may be a misnomer for this category on the menu. The usual blue plate special advertises daily-changing plates that are reasonably priced. I don’t think the items change from day to day at Loveski, but their price fits the name; they are very reasonable.

We chose both the Pickle Brined Fried Chicken Schnitzel ($20) and the Miso Braised Brisket ($22). Both dishes are served with delicious, creamy mashed potatoes with a heady potato aroma.

The pickled brine kept the thinly pounded chicken fillets moist inside their crispy coating. There was lot of flavor here and a sprinkle of the lemon served on the side added even more pizzazz.

The Asian touch comes into play with the Miso Braised Brisket. It’s not heavy-handed and doesn’t seem out of place with the rest of the menu. Several slices of the brisket were shingled across the oval white plate with its blue-lined rim. Some of the braising liquid coated the plate and shaved fresh horseradish was sprinkled judiciously over the meat.

The desserts, cookies and pastries such as Boreka ($4 to $6.50), are sourced from quality providers and baked off at Loveski. Unfortunately, we were too full to try any.

Loveski offers its all-day menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Plus there’s a larder with food items packaged to go. Drop in for a quick breakfast, meet friends for lunch on the patio, relax with a snack in the afternoon, enjoy dinner after a busy day or grab something from the larder to help you put a meal together at home. Come and feel the love.

Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at ijfoodwalker@gmail.com.

Loveski Marin

Address: Marin Country Mart, 1813 Larkspur Landing Circle, suite 15, Larkspur

Phone: 415-526-3889

Website: Loveskideli.com

Cuisine: West Coast “Jew-ish” deli

Noise level: Moderate

Seating: Bar stools and tables inside and tables outside

Liquor selection: Wine and beer

Gluten-free selections: Yes

Vegetarian selections: Yes

Vegan selections: Yes

Dog friendly: Yes

Parking: Free lot

Hours: 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily

Prices: $3 to $22

Summary: A Northern California-style deli influenced by traditional Jewish delis and Thai American flavors.