Exclusive: Mugler Creative Director Casey Cadwallader on His Debut Shoe Collection — ‘Sensual Danger’ Mixed With Comfort
The debut release sees the introduction of “The Fang” heel series.
Mugler’s first footwear offering designed by creative director Casey Cadwallader is here.
For Cadwallader, launching Mugler footwear has been a long-time goal. “I’ve been wanting to launch footwear for six years now,” the designer, who joined the French luxury label in 2018, told FN in an exclusive interview ahead of the launch. “So today is a very exciting day for me because they are finally shipping to the stores.”
First teased on Instagram in March, the debut release sees the introduction of “The Fang” heel series. Crafted in Italy, the series features a sculptural chrome metal “Fang” heel characterized by a slightly flared, pointed and angular stiletto heel. It will be available in two heights – in 95mm (3.7 in) and 55mm (2.2 in) – and is finished with a pointed toe.
Taking inspiration from corsetry, a signature for the house, semi-transparent mesh pumps, ankle and knee-high boots will be available in the Fang heel series. Sandals featuring a chrome metal pointed toe plate paired with strapped buckles will also be available.
Sandals, mules and ankle boots come in calf leather in black, chrome metallic and classic medium blue denim, while illusion mesh pairs are made in three tones.
While this is the first commercially available Mugler shoe collection by Cadwallader, the designer told FN that he’s been making shoes for the brand’s runway shows for a while now. But it was his 2022 collaboration with Jimmy Choo and its creative director Sandra Choi that sparked momentum for his own collection.
“I really loved working with Sandra,” Cadwallader said. “My collaboration with her and Jimmy Choo brought the notion of launching my own shoe collection closer to a reality for me. That project got me much more ready for my own launch in terms of making sure that our shoes were very comfortable to wear, that the pitch was perfect, and that our heel was signature to us. You know, all the things that you need to make sure of when launching the category.”
This foundation was essential for the designer, who said that he wanted his debut shoe collection to be both wearable and standout at the same time. “I often think of shoes as weapons,” Cadwallader said. “And I’ve made a lot of shoes in the past for shows that’ve had really strong pointed metal toes and things that felt very dangerous. And so, I wanted a bit of that feeling. But at the same time to make it more real.”
“Shoes are one of my favorite things to work on,” the designer added. “There are so many parts that must come together to make it perfect. It was this sort of sensual danger mixing with an actually truly comfortable shoe. So, it’s only a weapon to the outside, but actually very nice to yourself.”
Looking ahead, Cadwallader said he will be adding more shoe silhouettes in future collections and expand into men’s footwear. “For women’s, we’re working on lower heights that I’m excited about,” he said. “I think the move to launch with a higher heel first makes sense for us, and then adding flats and smaller heels. Eventually the growth will also be into men’s. So, the category will just get bigger. I think there’s still a lot that we can do since we’re still so young with the space.”
As for what styles we shouldn’t expect anytime soon, Cadwallader admits that a sneaker would be an unlikely addition to the mix – at least for now. “I have trouble with a sneaker, to be honest,” he said. “It just doesn’t feel like our client or the character that we’re trying to create. But, if you can actually do a flat shoe that still has a bit of provocation in the way that it’s done, then I think you can stay on brand and do something that’s much more comfortable for more people, which I think is important.”
But ultimately the designer, who admitted that he wears hiking boots every day, said that when it comes down to it, Mugler footwear should be sexy. “I think a lot of women and men out there want sexy shoes,” Cadwallader said. “So, we just go for it.”
Mugler’s new Fang Heel series, which retails between $755 and $1,850, is now available online at fashion.mugler.com and in specialty stores worldwide.
