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New York Observer
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2024
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The 6 Most Exciting Restaurants in Dublin Right Now

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Many talented chefs are moving back home to Dublin after years of training in other gastronomy-focused cities, bringing their culinary chops with them.

When it comes to food cities in Europe, Dublin may not, at first, appear to hold a candle to its sought-after neighbors such as Paris or London, which rack up countless Michelin stars each year, but that’s about to change. The Irish city with a long-standing reputation for its nightlife and pub culture is finally starting to gain recognition for its burgeoning food scene. Both up-and-coming chefs and heavy hitters with global appeal such as Jean-Georges Vongerichten are also planting restaurant roots in Dublin, making it an even more appealing destination for food lovers.

Historically, Ireland has been synonymous with frothy gold pints, largely thanks to the Guinness Storehouse, which draws millions of tourists each year, and whiskey from legacy brand Jameson. But as many restaurants put the spotlight on seasonality and sustainability and shift to tasting menus, the wine scene in Dublin is also undergoing a renaissance, with low-intervention and organic wines at the forefront. It’s not unusual to come across vino menus that are longer than the beer offerings, along with dishes that have been carefully curated and almost entirely locally-sourced to complement small-batch wines that you may have never heard of—but ought to know.

Many talented chefs are moving back home to Dublin after years of training in other gastronomy-focused cities, bringing their culinary chops with them. These fresh faces are changing the way Dubliners are thinking about food and the way it’s produced. They are redefining the culinary landscape in the Irish capital, and we’ve highlighted a few of these skilled chefs and where you can find them.

From charming bistros to chic eateries, here are a few of the most notable restaurants in Dublin right now that are worth the hype. 

Allta

  • 1 Three Locks Square, Dublin Docklands, Dublin, D02 A5W7

This pop-up concept-turned-brick-and-mortar restaurant first debuted in 2019, before opening as a permanent establishment in early 2024. It has quickly become one of Dublin’s hottest restaurants, with glowing reviews in local papers, and has even stirred up whispers about Michelin star status.

Start with a hand-crafted cocktail in the lounge, dubbed the Glovebox, where a DJ plays Thursday through Sunday evenings. Allta, which means “wild beast” in Gaelic, is helmed by Scottish-born chef Niall Davidson, a rising star who is steadfast about sourcing local ingredients and seafood. The menu changes daily, and dishes are meant to be enjoyed family style. The shiitake bolognese pappardelle is a must; it’s a crowd-pleasing dish that will appeal to both vegetarians and meat eaters. The desserts are simple and unpretentious, including a creamy soft serve made with sheep’s yogurt, which owes its pretty pink color to rhubarb.

Allta. Al Higgins

No. 27

  • 27 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin, Ireland

The Shelbourne, arguably one of the most iconic hotels in Dublin, is home to No. 27, a restaurant and lounge popular with locals and visitors alike. Located in the heart of the city, adjacent to St. Stephen’s Green Park, No. 27 serves classic Irish cocktails and fare alongside a seafood-heavy menu. The oysters, prepared a few different ways, and the signature baked prawns are not to be missed, but if you’re in the mood for a heartier dish, try the Shelbourne Pie, which is made with juicy slow-braised beef. Pair your meal with one of their signature seasonal cocktails or ask for a list of their sustainable tipples, which use one ingredient that is closed-loop to minimize food waste. Keep the drinks flowing and head to the Horseshoe Bar, tucked away in the back of the hotel, where you can enjoy a four-whiskey tasting for €35 per person.

No. 27 Dublin. No. 27

Chapter One

  • 18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1, Ireland

Located in a former Jameson building, Chapter One is one of just two Michelin two-starred restaurants in Dublin. The modern fine dining restaurant is elegant but not pretentious, although dishes could easily be mistaken for delicate, expensive art. Reserve the Chef’s Table for a special dining experience, where you’ll be seated in a glass-enclosed booth inside the kitchen and witness the beautiful behind-the-scenes chaos. Choose from a four-course dinner menu that will run €160 per person or a six-course tasting menu for €190 per person.

Chapter One by MV. Host & Co.

Jean-Georges at The Leinster

  • 7 Mount Street Lower Dublin 2, D02 WK33 Ireland

Located on the rooftop of the Leinster, a new 55-room boutique hotel on the edge of Merrion Square, Jean-Georges is the namesake restaurant of acclaimed chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The bright and airy dining room on the fifth floor is anchored by paisley banquettes and larger-than-life olive trees, but the terrace is where you’ll want to sit to take in views of the city. The menu blends Vongerichten’s signature French and Southeast Asian flavors with Irish influences, as seen in signature dishes such as the egg toast with caviar, sweet pea soup and grilled lamb chops with a chili glaze. 

Jean-Georges at The Leinster. Jean-Georges

Variety Jones

  • 78 Thomas St., The Liberties, Dublin, D08 F2RN, Ireland

This cozy, one-Michelin-star restaurant in the cool Liberties neighborhood offers an exceptional culinary experience paired with friendly, unfussy service. First, though, you’ll need to actually find the entrance—look for a drawing of a face on the facade of this otherwise nondescript building.

The restaurant only offers a six-course Chef’s Choice tasting menu, priced at €90 per person. It rotates often, but the menu is not recommended for diners with dietary restrictions. Chef and owner Keelan Higgs prepares Irish-inspired dishes cooked in an open fire, with past highlights including squab served with a beetroot hoisin, grilled halibut with cavolo nero and an always-on foie gras dish. The extensive wine list highlights small producers from around the world, with a few refreshing non-alcoholic beverages, as well.

Variety Jones. Variety Jones

Note

  • 26 Fenian St, Dublin, D02 FX09, Ireland

This award-winning bistro and wine bar, led by newcomer chef Essa Fakhry, specializes in lesser-known natural wines and small plates with a European slant. The eclectic dishes are a celebration of what’s fresh and in season, and might include white asparagus with a creamy Soumaintrain cheese, confit duck legs with lentils, or monkfish with sprouting broccoli. You can order à la carte, but we recommend the three-course lunch menu for €32 per person. Either way, the food here is delicious and worth the hype.

Note Dublin. Al Higgins




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